Racing Daylight - A Motorcyclist's Journey
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Racing Daylight
A Motorcyclist's Journal

Motorcycle Journey on the AlCan
Upper Liard, Yukon Territory
to Fort Nelson, British Columbia

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Speed Triple Street Fighter

Friday, July 29 Day 13

 

    I awake early, 6 a.m., well rested and ready to go. I head for Watson Lake where I am greeted by a massive collage of signs called the Sign Forest. Just signs, tons of them, all kinds, big, small. Hundreds of them as if someone started this decades ago and it just got out of control. Watson Lake is known for its Signpost Forest. I pull the bike to a stop and look at all the messages and slogans. Telephone phone pulls sunk into the ground are covered on every available spot.

    It starts to sprinkle a little and I think to take a picture of this and realize my camera is no where to be found. I start growing more frustrated as I have to stop looking and put on the rain suit. By the time I get the yellow suit on, the rain is coming down in buckets. I start backtracking. Last picture was at the gas station so I head back that way. As I pull onto the road, the rain pours down upon me. I reach Junction 37 and ask at the counter.

    Sure enough, the clerk pulls out the camera from the garbage can and hands it to me. It’s smooshed like a pancake. As if a tanker truck drove over it. Now that sucks. My father gave me that camera when I left for Portugal 5 years ago. Maybe the film can be saved so I thank her for the camera, pack it in my hardbags and head east. (Which is why those photos are a little green- they survived, the one of Mark and I did not.)

    It is raining so hard, I can’t see through the windshield. I have to sit up straight and peer over the top of it like on the Denali Highway the other day. I have to put the visor of the helmet up as it fogs and is coated in rain. As soon as I pop my head up to see where the road is, I get pelted. My face is soaked, dripping wet, and the fabric of the helmet liner starts to absorb the wetness. What can I do but drive through it?    

    Leaving the Watson Lake area, the pace is very slow going. Slick roads make the road an entirely different environment. I can’t lean the bike very far into the corners and leaning is what makes the bike go around. The rain is just pouring from the sky and traffic seems to have abated some. The road is very poor quality, gravel patches, no shoulders, no warning signs of upcoming turns.

    In the U.S., each turn in the road comes with a speed rating and as a motorcyclist, you learn to gage your speed from this. The numbers 25, 35 or 40 are good indicators of how sharp of a corner is approaching. None of that up here. I ride for an hour, two hours, and finally I reach clear skies. The rain slows at times, the sun peeking out. Then the rain starts up again. Other times the air is just filled in moisture. I also go in and out of the Yukon and British Columbia seven times as the road twists back and forth across the heavily forested border.

    I stop at one of these border crossings and the sign says- The Yukon Territory takes its name from the Indian work ‘Youcon’, meaning ‘big river’. It was first explored in the 1840s by the Hudson’s Bay Co., which established several trading posts. The territory, which was then considered a district of the Northwest Territories, remained largely untouched until the Klondike gold rush, when thousands of people flooded into the country and communities sprang up almost overnight. This sudden expansion led to the official formation of the Yukon Territory on June 13, 1898.

    Rejoining the road, I realize that it was a huge blunder not to buy a new windshield for the motorcycle before I left. This one can be very difficult to see through in inclement weather. It wasn’t something I even thought of. The 10 year old plexiglass grows more clouded as it ages. I don’t notice it most of the time, but when it’s raining, it becomes very apparent.

    I gas up in Coal River and am relieved to take the rain suit off. I stay in full leathers head to toe. Leather is the one rule I’ve become fanatical about. I even ride in full leathers on my 20-minute ride to work each day. I gas up and chat with some other travelers. Everyone wants to talk to the motorcyclist in this crazy weather.

    The road is drying as I pull out of Coal River and head east past Liard River Hotsprings Provincial Park. The ride is refreshing and I feel more at ease. The road is still wet in spots, but that will probably dry up as the day goes on. I run through some mountainous curves for awhile. At one point, the bike and I are heading up a hill going at a moderate pace and round a tight left-hand corner. Then the bottom drops out as the crest comes into view. Normally when a rider comes to a corner that dips down and springs back up hill, sort of a u-shape, the bike will be thrust against the ground creating a great deal of traction, of stickage, and you power through the corner. However, on the opposite side of the fence, if a corner is an up and over, and the apex is at the top, the bike behaves entirely differently. And all of this is exactly what happens.

    I ride into this up and over hard left and I realize I am not going to make it around. I am crashing. I am not going to be able to pull it through. I’m going down. A million things could have been different. I could have been going a little slower. I could have been at a steeper lean angle. The tires were starting to wear and I am planning on replacing them in a couple thousand more miles. A bike with new tires vs. a bike with tires in need of replacement handles totally different. I was too hesitant, not aggressive enough to hang on. The road was damp on the corner and maybe the bike started slipping. I have been riding over patches of gravel for days. There wasn’t any shoulder and the edge of the pavement was crumbled into tiny rocks of asphalt.

    A million variables, but as a motorcyclist, when it’s your time to go down, it’s simply time. I don’t know why everything happens in slow motion but it does. I don’t understand why I can’t remember valence shells of electrons for my chemistry exam yet I can recount every millisecond of an event like this.

    My first thought is instinct rather than panic. I know I am crashing. The thought is to lay the bike down, get it on its side. The most vulnerable part of a bike is the fork. There are no bumpers on these things, and if you hit anything head on, it’s all over for both myself and the bike. However, if you lay the bike on its side, the crash bars are there to protect the motor and side of the bike. Save the bike. I could feel it, save the bike. Lay the bike down, save the bike.

    I fly off the road and hit sand like gravel that’s very common up here. Suddenly the bottom drops out. The bike and I drop about two feet below the roadway and down an incline. Still going full speed, I lay the bike down on its left side just like at the races. I can actually feel myself sliding along the ground. The next thought is get free of the bike. Separate from the bike. Kick the bike free. Still moving at speed, the thought flashes and I manage to get off the bike and behind it. In the next instant as the bike slams to the ground, I realize my foot is trapped underneath and the momentum is pulling me along.

    The bike is sliding along- pulling me. I can’t break free. I’m lying on my side sliding, when the bike hits something and bounces up into the air. My left boot breaks free but we both keep sliding. Suddenly there’s a clunk and as quickly as it began, it’s over.

    I lay right beside the bike sprawled out in what I realize is a thicket. The bike has slid over and through these bushes and barely touched gravel. I just lie there for a second collecting my wits as to what just happened. Then I stand up and become very angry. I don’t even think to look and see if I am hurt or bleeding. I ride bikes every day, trip or no trip. I don’t even own a car. I ride rain, sun, hot, or cold, but I am not supposed to crash. Waves of anger consume me, even more so because I have crashed for the second time this trip. Crashing sucks.

    Looking myself over, it seems every joint is working fine. No sharp pains, in fact not even a scratch. My leathers have protected me once more. I take stock of my surroundings and smell gasoline. It’s pouring out of the tank onto the engine and ground. I have just filled up an hour ago and the tank’s rather full. I have to right the bike to get the flow of gasoline to stop. I start pulling all the gear off the bike becoming even angrier.

    How could I have crashed? How stupid, out here in the wilderness, miles from anything to have ruined the serenity of my journey. The adrenaline surges. How could I have made such a mistake! I throw the gear to the side, struggling to pull the hard bags off. I am just seething. As I pull the right side one off, it finally occurs to me where I am standing. I become aware that the bike is perched on the edge of a cliff and the back tire is hanging out in space.

    Below where I’m standing is a 40 to 50 foot drop down an extremely steep cliff. All the trees have been cut on the hillside and there are tree stumps sticking out of the ground straight up. They're a clue as to just how steep the hillside is. At the bottom of the cliff, tree trunks lay like discarded Lincoln Logs.

    The only thing that has stopped the bike and I from shooting off the side of the cliff is a small stump. It’s the only one I can see on the cliff edge where I am standing. It’s small, only about 4 inches thick. And to boot, it’s sticking up from below the cliff edge. It’s been cut level with the ground, the ground where I am standing. The stump has caught the bike by becoming wedged in between the swing arm and the muffler. It’s the only thing that stopped us from going over the edge.

    Not really thinking, I climb down the cliff edge, hanging onto the stump. It’s incredibly steep. I dig my boots into the soft earth of a small dirt overhang, the first place wide enough even to get a foothold. The tire is at the level of my chin. Looking up, the entire bike is perched ready to go over. I push on the tire, trying to dislodge it to no avail. Each time I try to lift upwards, I slide down the hillside. My combat boots sink into the soft earth from all the rains and no traction forces me to clamor back up to the cliff edge.

    I again take note of my surroundings and become aware that I can’t be seen from the road. Its surface is ten feet above me. I have slid off the road onto an outcropping. If anyone notices I’m down here, they haven’t stopped. The bike has slid over thick brush so there is barely a trail. There are no skid marks on the road or nonexistent shoulder to show someone has even gone off the road. Worse yet, and rather unlikely, if anyone also misses this corner, I’m in their direct path. It‘s an odd thought. My body collapses on the ground beside the bike, panting.

    The world starts spinning. My whole body starts shaking. I realize I could have been killed. Like for real this time, sure I’ve crashed before over the last few years of motorcycling, but never this close. I sit there slumping and stare at the stump. It really is the only stump on the entire outcropping. I start weeping, shaking uncontrollably. I just lose it.

    I have to pull myself together. Get the bike off the edge of the cliff. It’s like a command. I can’t stand the bike up so I am going to have to manhandle it off the edge. I tug at the bike grunting- it doesn’t budge. I’m afraid that if I push it up, it’ll topple right over the edge.

    The front tire has scooped up a small amount of fine dirt in its landing place. I try the tire next. It too proves very heavy after I tug at the rim and heave again and again. I collapse once more panting. Sweat is running into my eyes. For a moment I can’t see through the salty solution. I’m still wearing all my leathers and sweating profusely. I start pulling and tugging off my gloves, jacket, and turtleneck as if I was chained to them. Now down to just my black leather chaps and white tank top, I clutch a canteen guzzling the water. Sitting down on the edge of the cliff, my boots hang off the side swaying in the wind. The water is cool to my lips and everything stops for a moment once more. I just sit there sweating and gasping for breath.

    Odd thoughts run through my head like a herd of wild horses. I’m done with motorcycling. I am going to push it over the edge and hitchhike home. I gaze over the side and imagine my body lying down there. It’s as if I’m looking down on myself from space again. My crumpled leathered body lies impaled on a small stump or something. Or even broken bones and internal injuries would leave me stranded to survive on the 20 pounds of MRE’s I have with me. I have my K-Bar, my first aid kit, and the water in my canteens. The bike would lie in a pile inches from me, a tire there, a motor there, surrounded by forest and bears. I can just see my body lying like a rag doll at the bottom.

    Survival stories rage through my head, every James Bond movie I’ve ever seen where the car goes careening off the edge of the cliff, and of course appropriately bursts into flames. Of every Drama in Real Life story I’ve ever read in Reader’s Digest I used to read as a kid. Even if I had gone over the edge, I could survive somehow. Eating tree bark and killing squirrels with my bare hands, crawling to the nearest town a hundred miles away, I could survive for awhile.

    Suddenly the thoughts come to a screeching halt, and I pull myself away from the cliff edge. It’s like somebody hit the reset button and my brain started rebooting. I know I can’t budge the bike. I know I can’t be seen from the road. But I’m perfectly okay, and so I have to get out of this myself. I know the engine won’t start since it’s been dosed in gasoline so my guess is it needs some time to dry off.

    I pull on the bike once more, jerking, tugging. Each time I get it to move, it springs back to its resting place stuck on the stump. The front tire is buried in dirt and I have to lift the bike off the edge of the cliff. It can’t just be tipped back upright because I’m still afraid I’ll push it over the edge of the cliff. Also I’m afraid if the bike is disturbed in the wrong way, bumped or something like that, I might topple it over the edge also. I stand at the edge careful of where I am standing. One step backwards and it’s open space. The area if overgrown so much, it’s hard to tell where the vegetation stops and the cliff ends.

    I finally move the front tire by dragging rather than lifting. The bike pivots on the stump away from the edge. Think like an engineer my brain commands. With that, the position of the bike changes. I pull at the back end grunting and straining. Finally with a heave worthy of a groin pull, I lift the 700-lb. bike off the stump and away from the edge. I collapse on the ground in a heap panting and gasping for breath, sweating profusely.

    With ground under the wheels, I push the bike upright and just pause there balancing. The bike finally stands up by itself as I wedge in the board to prop it up. I can’t get the kickstand out because between the tires is a mound of dirt. I push the starter and the motor turns over but no hint of starting. I better save the battery and let the bike sit awhile.

    Walking back up the path of the slide, my little brain realizes looking at the downed thicket that I came off the road at precisely the right spot. It was just in the right trajectory to slide parallel along the road. The entire path of the slide bordered along the edge of the cliff for a good 30 feet. Somehow, the bike and I stayed on the side of the road. We should have flown off the edge in any other circumstance. Where the bike came to rest, that was the end of the available space on this cliff. And right at that point was where the bike met the stump.

    If there is any greater word for awe, even a sort of spiritual thankfulness, I feel as though I am bathing in it. My brain and senses keep trying to assimilate what just happened. It’s as though I just can’t compute it all, almost like being in shock. I walk back to the bike retracing the path. My head shakes back and forth, and here I stand, not a scratch. The ground extends out 4 feet from the road at the start of the slide then drops down. It extends to about fifteen feet wide and the bike rests at the widest part, a cradle of sorts below the road.

    Finally, I start assessing the damage to the bike. The left mirror is broken off and the dash is busted up. I can tell I have bent the inner fairing frame. The framework supports the fairings and windshield. The radio has been demolished. I pick it up and a pile of dirt pours out of the tape deck. That makes me laugh a little.

    The bike is still propped up with the board that once covered the rear seat. I have to move the bike further away from the edge. The only way to do that is to pick up the entire rear of the bike and lift it to the left. I heave squatting like a weightlifter trying to pick up the rear of the Venture. Nothing happens. I lift again straining even more. It budges a little.

    Then I lose my balance and the entire bike falls over landing on my left leg. Trapped, my limp body just lies there panting and sweating. Still able to wiggle my toes, always a good sign, I try but cannot even move the leg. There is no leverage and the bike is now seemingly becoming heavier as the pain of the weight begins to grow. Think like an engineer.

    I swing around my good leg, prop my back against the ground and push up on the seat as hard as I can. The bike raises just enough for me to pull the leg out. I think I am losing a few pounds just from sweating. This is turning out to be some day.

    Once away from the edge, the bike starts right up and runs as smoothly as it always has to my welcome relief. I let it idle to just hear the comforting sound of the motor. Looking down, it occurs to me the gear shifter is sort of wrapped underneath the motorcycle and it’s still in a high gear. Pulling out some tools, I bend it just enough to downshift it into first gear.

    I stand to the side and hold both handlebars. Letting out the clutch, the tire spins in the soft dirt and begins to sink. That’s not going to work. Letting it idle, I work around to the rear of the bike carefully balancing. The weightlifter in me squats, heaves, and picks up the rear of the bike. The back tire comes out of the hole and onto solid ground. Letting out the clutch again, the bike moves a little as I roar the engine spinning the rear tire. Dirt shoots out from behind in a rooster tail. The front tire plows against the mound of dirt. These tires are designed for long distance traveling and not dirt riding. I find my trusty board and wedge it underneath the rear tire. The route up to the road is very steep. The bike is going no where fast.

    In all this time, well over an hour has passed; not a single person has stopped. I am sure it is because I am below the surface of the road. And strangely, my embarrassment is so great from crashing; I’m glad no one has stopped. But with the bike now upright, and in a different position, I can be seen. I wonder if it looks like I am supposed to be here, as if I pulled off the road to hang out awhile. That would be the vantage of the cars lazily rounding the corner to my left.

    However, I now realize the cars entering the corner from the opposite direction have a much better view of me and to my amazement, one finally pulls to a stop. A thirty something guy in a Mercury Quest minivan jumps out and hurriedly comes over to me. His wife is in the passenger seat and two small kids sit in the back looking in our direction. After assuring him I’m okay, (I leave out I’ve been here for some time) we muscle the bike up the steep embankment. The rear tire spins fighting for traction. I gun the motor, and we make it to the edge of the road.

    I say heartfelt thanks. He offers to help me collect my things. He can see the hardbags and all my gear strewn in a pile where the bike was lying. I refuse politely and we wave goodbye as he hops back in his Mercury Quest and goes on his merry way. I never even caught his name.

    This blind corner is bad news as the bike now sits at its apex. I walk down the steep embankment, across the outcropping and to the edge where a pile of my stuff sits. Hauling it back up the embankment and reattaching the gear to the back of the bike, there’s a jerry can missing which I hadn’t noticed before. Looking over the edge, there it lies at the bottom of the steep hillside. Hopping over, holding onto saplings, and shimming along downed tree trunks, I clamor to the bottom. There it lies, not a drop of gasoline lost as it tumbled over the edge in the crash.

    For a moment, my mind pauses and drinks in my surroundings where I could be lying right now. I am glad this is the only thing that flew over the edge. My hand reaches for the red gas can. Holding it in one, clawing with the other, I haul the 20-pound jug up the side of the hill. Thrusting the toes of my boots into the soft dirt to get a foothold and grasping for anything solid to pull myself along with one hand, I make my way slowly. Drops of sweat roll down my face. On my hands and knees, I claw along, this isn’t exactly something you can stroll or walk up. It’s so steep, while stopping for a breath halfway up and standing erect, the ground is right in front of my nose. Finally reaching the top edge, I heave the jerry can up over the edge as if it were a grenade. I pull myself up collapsing on my back again, huffing and puffing, sweating.

    The bike loaded up once more; I ease off the clutch. Rolling out onto the road, a wave of relief settles over me. Just to feel the motorcycle moving once more is a source of comfort. My trip plans have been destroyed, not that I exactly had a plan, but my reaction is just to head straight for home and call it a day. Why tempt fate? From now on, my brain decides, I am just taking it easy and making my way south. I feel like stopping at the first place that I come to just pull myself together. As I pick up speed, I start shaking. I can’t seem to stop. A few miles go by and I seem to calm down a little. The relief is overwhelming. I feel like crying like a baby.

    I lazily ride down the road as if the last few hours didn’t even happen. Except for the rattling of all the broken pieces, I think it just didn’t happen. It just didn’t. I’m not dead. I’m not lying in a heap at the bottom of some wilderness mountain road. It just didn’t happen.

    Muncho Lake Provincial Park is the first thing that looks promising as a rest stop and I pull in. I feel as though the bike needs some attention and my brain does too. So into a campground and a deserted site I pull the bike into and shut it all down. It is only the middle of the day. Out come the tools and the front part of the bike begins to be dismantled. The fairings are not as bad as I had thought, just all the mounting spots are broken off. That’s causing the rattling but the untrained eye probably wouldn’t even know an accident took place.

    I do my best to doctor it all up and begin to study the maps on the picnic table and eat a light lunch. I write in the trip journal and try to relax my mind and body after the series of events. After some time, the color of the sky begins to rapidly change above me. I decide to continue heading east.

    A storm is coming in rapidly as the smell and taste of the air changes. I pack up my things quickly and pull out the rain suit. I am beginning to dislike rain very much. The only thing to do is drive through it instead of sitting here getting rained on. It would seem also, that I escaped the site of my crash in good timing also.

    For a moment, the rain is a sprinkle. Just as I finish tugging on the rainsuit and snapping it up, there’s an all out downpour, the sky is falling in huge drops. I pull on the helmet as the rain splatters off the top and drips onto my face. A torrential downpour falls on me announcing the arrival of this latest storm. Puddles quickly form around the bike as I start it up. Time to leave. I have been parked at the campsite four hours. I feel better, spiritually and mentally. The rain pours down as I pull out onto the road in this first cloud burst. After a few minutes it subsides to just plain ole sucky rain. Yuck.

    Starting out on the 150 miles to Fort Nelson, the road quality improves for awhile, then grows worse. Nothing is for sure up here. The endless construction continues and there is gravel everywhere. The sky is low, ominously gray and the rain pours forth. I realize that I am still in the Muncho Provincial Park, which is long and narrow. The highway rides right through the middle of it.

    The view must be spectacular. I have been concentrating so hard on the road, it didn’t even occur that mountains lift into the sky and pines abound. Lakes nestle in and among the trees and in the valleys below. I ride over an occasional stream underneath the road. The rain is now coming down in torrents. Probably the hardest rain I have ever ridden in. For whatever reason, the bike runs like a charm. The other day in Alaska remains a mystery. The wind is blowing as if I was on a New England coast staring into the Atlantic on a stormy day. I wonder if this is what Nova Scotia is like.

    Rounding a corner reveals a peculiar scene. The pouring rain is making mush of a hillside at the edge of the road and it is literally disintegrating before my very eyes. The ditch beside the road is already full of fresh rocks and boulders. Escaping stones roll unencumbered, tumbling down, bouncing off the mound of boulders and into the road. The road by now is covered in boulders, some as big as a foot in diameter. Stones and boulders continue to roll one after the other, escaping down the exposed steep hillside. They pick up speed and roll right out into the road. The dirt of the hillside has turned to soup and is actually collapsing and oozing onto the road.

    There is barely enough room for one vehicle at a time to weave through 75 feet of rocks. A narrow path at the farthest left edge of the road, one wheel on the shoulder, is all that’s clear. I wait my turn as campers come the other way. When my turn arrives, I ride through the rocks watching boulders plummeting down. No big ones make it to me, but a couple small stones make it to the bike tinking against the rims.

    My boots are soaked and rain is driving into the pavement below me, everything is wet. The sky seems as though it is only 50 feet above me. Haze and clumps of fog cling to the hillsides. I reach the far side of the rocks and turn around parking the bike at the edge of the rapidly forming rock pile in the middle of the highway. I let the bike idle and stand there watching the hillside collapse onto the road in the cold pouring rain.

    Five separate storms come and go that afternoon. Never have I ridden through anything like this kind of weather, it is bizarre. I’ve never even heard of anything like this. Each downpour comes to a gradual end, and a hole in the clouds appears. The sun even shines through. Then the sun suddenly disappears and I am stuck in another torrential downpour of wetness. This is so odd, five times over.

    Later at another bend in the road, there’s a dry creek bed that empties into a lake. The road runs right along the edge of it with mountains to my left. It looks like a good place to stop and take a quiet serene breather. The rain has stopped for a moment and I am thankful for a momentary respite from the wetness. The bike is parked right beside a culvert where the creek bed runs beneath the road. Pausing there and shutting off the bike, it is so peaceful up here I think. After a few minutes, an odd noise like rushing water can be heard. But it isn’t raining and actually it seems really calm. Dark low clouds race by overhead but no rain.

    I turn in the direction of the noise and a massive wall of water is rushing down the dry creek bed toward me. It’s like something out of a Hollywood theme park ride. Taken by complete surprise, I quickly run over to the bike. Not even bothering to start it, I pull in the clutch and push it as quickly as I can away from the culvert straining against the weight of the bike.

    Just as I get clear, the wall of water slams into the culvert. The level of the water rises alarmingly fast. Within minutes, I watch in awe with several other people as the surface of the water quickly overcomes the culvert. The rushing boiling water strains to rush underneath the road. The bottom must be 6 feet below the road and 15 feet wide but in a minute or so, the level of the dirty brown water comes all the way up to the edge of the road. It was like a river you would go rafting on, pouring forth out of the mountains violently emptying into the lake. I guess that’s what they call a flashflood.

    Then appropriately so, the clouds opened up and another torrential downpour came soaking down upon me. It sends the others scurrying for their campers. I just stand there in the pouring rain. I already have my rainsuit on and I stick my tongue out tasting the rain. I feel like throwing a fist up in the air at the terrible weather. You want a piece of me? Come and get me! Rain sucks.

    A few miles later popping over a hill is a rather terrible accident. As a pickup pulling a full-size camper crested the opposing hill, the driver must have lost control or something like that. The truck is upside down in the middle of the road and the camper looks as though it exploded. There are pieces of it everywhere. White chunks of camper siding are strewn about both sides of the highway and into the ditches. Even the axles to the camper are not even attached to the frame anymore. Everything you’d find inside a camper is lying all over the place- cups, dishes, pillows, firewood, and even bicycles.

    It looks as though the accident was a short time ago. Cars and people are everywhere parked on both ends of the accident and everyone is pitching in to clean up the scene. The ambulance is not there yet but it doesn’t look like anyone is dead or anything. No white sheets anywhere. I think back a few hours to my own. Okay, so it wasn’t this bad. I roll by what’s left of the camper on it’s side near the overturned vehicle. It must be a rather terrible end to a vacation for someone.

    Fort Nelson finally arrives and not quite sure what to do, I ride through the town. I figure I am 5 – 6 hours from anywhere. I look up and the sky is gray and dark in all directions. I know if I continue to head south to try and find a campground, the storms will probably wash me away. Everything I have is wet. I could use a good night’s rest. This has been a very hard day, probably the hardest of the entire trip. The right thing to do is get a motel room for the night and dry out. I hesitate to do that but it seems the best choice. $45 Canadian seems like a lot of money although it is probably only about $30 bucks. I am such a cheapskate.

    When I rode into Fort Nelson, it didn’t feel very old like up in Dawson City or in Whitehorse. There were plenty of pickups and that sort of thing, but it feels much more industrial that historic. I always wonder what people do up here in the middle of nowhere. I asked the desk clerk, and she says that the town is actually pretty new in a sense. Even up into the 1950’s, the town was a frontier town and didn’t even have electricity, telephones, running water, doctors, that sort of thing. I must look a little surprised to her. It wasn’t until they discovered all the natural gas underneath the town that things really got cooking around here she adds.

    I haul everything into my motel room and drape wet clothes everywhere. I settle in eating a dinner of chicken and watch cable TV, all 12 channels. I read a couple brochures from the hotel lobby. The first one is for a huge natural gas plant just south of town. The gas was discovered in 1960 and the area has long been known for oil seeping right out of the ground. The Westcoast Energy natural gas processing plant is the largest in all of North America. The gas is pulled from the ground, purified, and then pumped south in an 800-mile long pipeline. A lot of the vehicles up here are natural gas also, and many of the area gas stations have natural gas pumps. Where there is natural gas, there is sulfur as the byproduct. This gets made into pellets and trucked southward. It says I can take a tour of the plant. A tour of a sulfur plant? I think I’ll pass.

    As usual there is a huge logging industry. In town, there’s a veneer plant, a sawmill and a plywood plant. Huge quantities of chopsticks are made here and shipped overseas to Asian markets. How’s that for irony. Sitting in Japan eating rice and stamped on your chopsticks are the words, Made in Canada. I think I can take a tour of one of those plants too. Sounds better than a sulfur plant.

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